Skin Hydration

Moisturisers are designed to make the skin softer and more pliable, by increasing its hydration. Naturally occurring skin lipids and sterols as well as artificial or natural oils, humectants, emollients, lubricants, etc. may be part of the composition of commercial skin moisturizers.



When the skin is damaged, recovery time depends on retarding the loss of moisture from the skin.



- Moisturizers are defined as chemicals that increase the water content of the stratum corneum and are hydrating agents.



- Moisturizers work by using ingredients that are occlusive and/or humectant agents.



- These ingredients include the same or similar natural skin components (biomimetic).



Occlusive agents physically block the loss of water from the skin.



- These hydrophobic agents form an occlusive film on the skin that reduces TEWL by preventing evaporation of water from the stratum corneum.



- These agents may also help to repair the lipid barrier of the skin, helping with skin cellular regeneration.



- Examples of occlusive agents include petrolatum, beeswax, lanolins and oils.



Humectant agents capture water molecules for your skin, and are an important part of every sensitive skin care routine.



- The water is drawn from the deeper dermis, rarely the environment.



- Intercellular lipids and the natural desquamation process are normalized through the hydration of the stratum corneum, ensuring a graceful skin.



- The skin gains resistance against drying conditions.



- Humectants imitate the action of natural hydrophilic humectants in the stratum corneum, helping skin to heal and rejuvenate.



- These chemicals include glycerine, alpha hydroxy acids, amino acids, lactic acids, propylene glycol and urea.



- Some of these agents are the base of the skin's natural moisturizing factors.



'Barrier-repairing' moisturizers contain lipids that are similar to the intercellular lipids of the skin. By replacing key lipid components, lipid bilayers affected by soaps, solvents and extreme dry, cold weather conditions can be repaired, thanks to the combinations of fatty acids, ceramide and cholesterol in the moisturizers.



Moisturizers contain other ingredients besides humectants and/or occlusive agents.



- Ingredients may improve the skin's softness by lubricating and filling in the spaces between dry skin cells. These will be listed as the active ingredients in the ingredient list on a moisturizer.



- The 'inactive' ingredients solubilize, stabilize, suspend, emulsify and /or disperse ingredients in order to create an aesthetically pleasing product.



- Most moisturizers have 65-85% water in a lotion form with active and inactive ingredients being dispersed by water. The high water content also serves to allow evaporation of the moisturizer and absorption of some components. The water works as a simple hydrating agent.



- Moisturizers in a cream form contain more oils or occlusive agents and less water.



- Ointments are oil-based mixtures with a marginal amount or no water in the product. These solutions are commonly very occlusive and greasy. An example would be pure petroleum jelly.