Jane Goodall's Chimp Eden, South Africa

Jane Goodall's Chimp Eden, South Africa

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If having a soul means being able to feel love, loyalty and gratitude, then animals are better off than a lot of humans." - James Herriot

Joao was abandoned by a Mozambique circus when he was only 3 years old. He spent the next 44 years poorly caged in a war torn zoo. Here today at age 65, he enjoys being "grandpa" to the infant chimps. He can still do the circus tricks he learned 50 years earlier.

Zac was chained for decades in an Angola bar where he was given alcohol, cigarettes and drugs for laughs. On arrival to Eden, integrating him brought many challenges. He had serious withdrawal symptoms form detoxing cold turkey.

Deep in the heart of South Africa, Jane Goodall's Chimp Eden is a sanctuary of rebirth for 33 chimps that suffered horrible lives in captivity. After an hour flight from Jo'burg, Terry and I were transferred to Chimp Eden Boutique Lodge set among mango trees in the lush Lebombo Hills. There are only 13 rooms. At off-season, we were the only guests and in a week we never locked our door. The balcony of our luxury suite overlooked the magnificent Drakensburg Mountains.

We are so grateful for this invitation by owner and director Eugene Cussons. He has traveled throughout Africa at a great personal risk to give abused chimps a chance for a meaningful life. He's convinced that with proper rehabilitation, they can learn the skills necessary to survive in the wild. The success is evident at every turn. Chimps isolated for years in cramped cages now thrive in stable family groups. He moves closer to his goal of returning them to the rainforest where they belong, but there are always setbacks.

Some chimps have been so humanized, they resist their natural instincts. Niki was such a pet. He was totally shaved, forced to wear jeans (and a Rolex) and made to dine at the table with cutlery. As he grew and the owner couldn't handle him, he spent 10 years in a deplorable zoo. Now at 16, he is the resident "Casanova", showing interest to females of all species!

Eden lies in Umholti Nature Reserve. Outside the chimp enclosures, giraffes, zebra, wildebeest, baboons and other animals roam the grounds. In 2006, the Cussons' family teamed up with Jane Goodall to create South Africa's first and only chimp sanctuary. You can watch Animal Planets video drama "Escape to Chimp Eden."

It presents a powerful saga of one man's bond with our closets primate cousin. Chimps share 98.8% of our genes. Two hundred years ago, there were over 2 million. Estimates now are 70,000. In Gambia, Benin and Tonga, chimpanzees are extinct.

On arrival, we heard the unmistakable pant-hoots of the residents. The next day at precisely 7am, a cacophony of screeching and grunts began. I wish I could have recorded the noise at breakfast time. We were told the problem is Mogi. Being starved for years, he always steals 90% of the food. Minutes later, he reluctantly shares it with others.

Our days here spent viewing the chimps in semi-wild surroundings and educational lectures. It's fascinating to watch their social interactions. In foraging areas, berries are hidden in eucalyptus trees to provide them with enriching challenges. They have longed for exercise and dream of trees.

Marc, assistant sanctuary manager, begins with a morning feeding tour for group 1, the young'uns. They clap their little hands for fruit. Like children, they'd rather starve than eat their veggies. We learn about the problems they face. First is the illegal bushmeat trade.

I always believed poor villagers killed chimps to feed their starving children. Nowadays, this high dollar illegal meat is found in black markets in London, Tokyo, San Francisco and Cape Town. Marc says the meat is so genetically close to us, it's like cannibalism.

Second is logging which destroys their forest habitat. Finally, the pet trade. The mother is butchered for meat and the baby chimp is sold for $50. Most die from the trauma. I feel however the worst abuse of all comes from traveling circus companies.

Jessica arrived here starved, with bones protruding, cigarette burns and fingers cut off. Charles was held down while his teeth were pulled out with pliers because he bit someone. And then there are poor zoos.

In group 2, we met Martha who was kept 12 years in a small concrete cage in a Ghana zoo. At Eden they had to teach what grass was. Now she's a happy big sister to all. My favorite was "wild child Suzy." The staff said she's full of nonsense and does summersaults for hours. Group 3 included 3 alpha males. Amadeus, now 180 lbs., was kept caged in an Angola gas station.

Cozy was a research chimp for years n the US. Somehow, he ended up with gypsies who castrated and beat him in a vein attempt to control him. We learned what efforts are put into the rescues. Owners rarely give up abused chimps. Bribes and sometimes military assistance is necessary to take them.

At night, the chimps enter their "5 star hotel" with heated floors, protein bars and fresh straw for nesting. Sometimes room service provides strawberry yogurt. The staff once noticed Charles had developed a cold. Marc entered the sanctuary with a bottle of Benadryl. Immediately all the chimps started coughing. Monkey see, monkey do.

They have the intelligence of a 6 year old. At dinner one evening, we heard great commotion. Josephine, the escape artist got out again. She bent tree branches over the electric fence and had
Jinga hold them down so she could climb over. She has the intelligence of a 10 year old. She once used coconut shells to dig a hole under the fence. She piled rocks to hide the hole from guards and a week later she fled. She always returns to her peaceful paradise.

We befriended Philip, the sanctuary manager. He coordinates the rescues and has 30 years of primate experience. I ask of his favorite chimp. His proper parental response was that he loves them all equally.

I noticed he's missing a finger. You cannot touch the chimps here because humans transmit diseases and they can bite. Most important, they want to bring back the chimp's instincts for survival.

We are hosted by Jenni here, a top travel consultant who arranges travel for the rescues and media. She's also a qualified ranger. The three of us left Eden to spend two nights at Nkabeni Tented Camp at iconic Krueger National Game Park.

After a game drive there with many lions sighted, we did a Bush Walk, which is a rare treat in Africa. Two armed rangers led us. We didn't encounter any of the Big 5, but it does help one appreciate the smaller animals close up.

Next day we visited a place I adore called Elephant Whispers to feed and ride African elephants. Six ton Tembo was still there who I knew from years past. Back at camp, a delicious dinner was served Boma style in the bush.

Our last day was back at JG Chimp Eden. Jenni and I worked on designing itineraries for future groups that will include three days here as well as rafting, bush walks, Kruger, elephant rides and more. After hours over laptops, we came up with a thrilling 9 day Adventures For Singles vacation experience that no American has yet conceived, (I must keep it top secret as competitors copy my detailed ideas. For now, I can only hint that it involves the World Wildlife Federation, a neighboring country, stunning beaches, giant turtles and affordable price!)

My time and work here made a most worthy site inspection. This is my 13th visit to SA. The more amazing diversity I discover, the more I fall in love with this country.

Before departure, I sat by the fence to say goodbye to Joao. He was sucking his thumb. As we stared into each others eyes, time seemed suspended. There was knowledge and wisdom in those eyes.

I felt a primal connection more powerful than my words can convey. Without being too anthropomorphic, we seemed to be conversing - silently. I "hear" that he has found it in his heart to forgive humans. The moment is both chilling and humbling. Goodbye dear Joao, Charlene, Tommy, Claudette, Mimi and all my other new African friends. Chimp Eden is an escape for your senses and a journey for your soul.

Donations are greatly needed for vet bills, security and maintenance. Most important is more space as countless suffering chimps need rescue. You can also Adopt a Chimp and watch it daily via live web cam. If you do, tell our friends at Chimp Eden that AFS referred you. Adventures For Singles is empowering primates with a better life. Together, we all can make a difference!''

About the Author:
Suzy Davis President and tour leader of
http://www.adventuresforsingles.com. She has traveled
the world for over 30 years initially as a flight attendant and now with
her 20 year old company, Adventures For Singles.



Article Originally Published On: http://www.articlesnatch.com


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