Consumer 101 - Killing Beauty

Drop Dead Gorgeous

How far would you go to be the fairest of them all? In Elizabethan times, women rubbed lead on their face and mercury in their lips to achieve beauty. The health problems were innumerable and serious. During the Italian Renaissance, a certain Signor Toffano created an arsenic-laced face powder. This lovely little gimmick was marketed as a way for rich women to rid themselves of their unwanted husbands. One flick of a powder puff was enough to see him buried. Today we would baulk at such a risk but we still happily slather ourselves in chemicals so strong they are handled with protective clothing in laboratories. Is it possible the cosmetic industry is still peddling beauty to die for? How do we know, after all just reading the ingredient list in a moisturiser seems to require a biology degree.

Lets start with the ubiquitous sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS). This chemical is used in almost everything from toothpaste to shampoos. But its side effects can include eczema, irritated eyes and skin (with prolonged exposure) and possible inflammation and infection of the urinary tract and vagina. Checking children's products to make sure they use the less harsh sodium laureth sulphate is a good idea as SLS has been shown to permanently damage children's eyes.

Other dodgy ingredients include EDC's. These gender-bending chemicals are linked to falling sperm counts in men. Some, like Nonylphenol used in cosmetics, Butylated hydroxy anisole (BHA) and E320 (which can leach into cosmetics from PVC containers) are restricted by the EU with a defined tolerable daily intake. However, overtime they build up in our body tissues and some experts consider there is no safe level for use.

Alpha hydroxy Acid (AHA). The cosmetic industrys favourite discovery AHA and BHAs are fruit and milk sugar exfoliates respectively. They work by rubbing off the outer layer of skin to expose the younger-looking? skin beneath. They cannot, as advertisers suggest, permanently improve your skin. In fact, they could ruin it. The epidermis (top layer) of skin is an important barrier protecting the body from UV rays and chemicals we come in contact with. The body's natural reaction to having it rubbed away is to create a thicker tougher epidermis, trapping you into a cycle of exfoliating. If you choose to regularly use products containing AHA's then you will also need to use a stronger sunscreen. AHA's have only been around ten years and their long-term effects are still unknown.

Natural products and extracts show the beauty industry has got wise to our desire for a more natural life. But too often "natural" ranges are just repackaged old products with small amounts of "extracts" added to keep the consumer happy. Really ?natural? products may also need higher levels of preservatives to keep them from going off, and so end up with the same number of chemicals found in all cosmetics and toiletries. Finally of course natural products such as plants and animal extracts can easily be as poisonous as chemicals.

Baby soft skinBabies and young children are particularly susceptible to infection, so products for children under three must have 50 times less microbes then adult products- according to EU law. This does mean they have many more preservatives in them- including benzoates. Benzoates can cause gastric irritation, mouth numbing and urticara and are often used in baby wipes. Perhaps the best option is to choose products with the smallest list of ingredients possible, and use baby soap and water where possible.

Animal magicThe Romans once painted their nails with a mixture of animal blood and fat. While this would horrify the public today there are a surprising number of animal products on our bathroom shelves. If you are a vegetarian this can make life difficult. Some animal-derived ingredients are pretty easy to spot other telltale names include:

Tallow, CI 77267, CI 77268, Collagen, Elastin, Gelatin, Hyaluronic Acid Keratin, Musk, Serum Albumin, Unipertan

Even if cosmetics say they have not been tested on animals, the individual ingredients are sure to have been tested, but not necessarily by the manufacturer.

Are you worth it?

Before you get too alarmed remember few people suffer serious health problems from cosmetics although many find certain products don't agree with them. Buying simpler products, that don't make us pay for wildly unrealistic advertising is probably a good idea. Cosmetics and toiletries can clean us, make us smell sweeter and enhance our looks but for real health and beauty, throwing money at the beauty counter is not an answer.

Boring but true: the only way to make your skin and hair healthier, and eyes brighter are the old tried and tested methods of health and nutrition. This means eating a balanced diet, drinking plenty of water and getting enough sleep. It also means staying out of the sun, exercising regularly and quitting smoking. It may not come in the most glamorous package- but your body and health are definitely worth it.