A Lot More Carrying On Than Usual

A Lot More Carrying On Than Usual

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Phew! Prada was declared a hit. "He better do a good suit ," said the same editor-in-chief as we waited for Ford's Gucci collection.

Phew! Despite offering a collection including snakeskin print halternecks, rhinestoned mini-dresses and an evening black jersey column complete with just one batwing sleeve, the accessories were great.

"I love Tom's take on a suit " was the breathless response of an English fashion editor when we got outside. So what of the clothes? "Oh, pure Posh Spice on a night out, but I can't wait to get that tiny purse on the chain. That was so genius."

Even houses not known for accessories are now piling them on. At Mila Schon, the designer has recruited a foursome to revamp the old label. Regretfully, they got more attention than they would have wished for, thanks to the error of judgment in casting a prepubescent 12-year-old girl to open the show. What they would doubtless have preferred was some attention for a simple yet glamorous collection highlighted by -- you've guessed it -- a new range of pink handsuit s, some of which can be tucked under the armpit, while others, festooned with glass beads, need to be playfully swung as you walk.

But what if your Prada shoulder suit has life in it yet and you are actually more interested in the clothes? The best messages from Milan: a reinvigoration of leather -- now in feather weights -- and cut and sliced as you have never seen it before.

Antonio Berardi, a Brit who now shows in Milan, had an abbreviated hot pink suit that looked as if it was fashioned from macrame. Closer inspection revealed it to be intricate leatherwork. Also from Berardi in his most commercial collection to date, a lemon-yellow leather shell top and matching trousers, if that's your kind of glamour.

Mila Schon's team, in contrast, used leather as a quiet accent in palest stone shell tops, wrap skirts and dresses that were slashed down the back.

The back is key. The most popular look in Milan is backless, with your modesty being preserved out front thanks to a few perilous ties holding your top over bare shoulderblades. The bra top becomes an evening piece shimmering with beading or sequins.

Giorgio Armani encapsulated the trend in his upbeat Emporio Armani show. The Emporio customer is young and youth is where the fashion world is aiming.

His Giorgio Armani collection was also decidedly young. Need a beige/navy/black gown for a big event? "Go elsewhere" was the message in a season where the dressiest pieces were hip-slung skirts beaded into vivid stripes worn over what looked like brightly patterned swimming costumes. But the under-25s who can afford it or are famous enough to borrow or be gifted it will love it. Expect to see lots of Armani on the pages of Australian In Style Magazine, a spin-off of the hugely successful US fashion and fame fusion that will be launched here in March.

What else to buy? Well, you'll need a pair of hipsters (beaded, of course) and perhaps a muted, printed, washed out frilly top and a matching skirt (try Marni). Just don't buy black. Even the front-row fashionistas are, at last, getting bored with it -- except, of course, when it works as a neutral foil to their brand new, multi-coloured Zentai handsuit .

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